William Simpson's Diary, 1878-1879

Dec.

Sat. 7

Started at 9 a.m. with the convoy and a large party, Major Sanford, Col. Williams, R.A., Knox, Col. McGregor, Broom, the Padre, and Walker, the Times S.C. Intended to return same day, but stayed to see Caves of Chicknour. The 10th Hussars put me up. Dined with General Macpherson.

Sun. 8

About 12 o'clock we went off to see the Caves. Crossed the Kabool River on a raft. Two Ghoorkas were sent with me to go to the Caves. Only recesses, from a few feet to 20 or 30 – arched, some remains of plaster – over 100 of them, in 2 groups. Those next the village of Chicknour being the oldest to all appearance. Made by Kaffre log. Some of them said to go in great distance as far as Cashmere!

Mon. 9

Major Wood flashed a Heliograph into Dhakka yesterday for my Ashab and Servant to come out here – determined on this in hope of an advance on Jellalabad [Jalalabad], but my things did not come. Breakfasted with the Rifles in the morning.

Tues. 10

Breakfasted with 4th Ghoorkas. My tent and all my things came up to day. Glad to have a house of my own again. Dined with the Rifles in the evening. Another chase after the Mir Akhor, again unsuccessful. Posted my letter to day.

Wed. 11

Did sketch of girls and boys swinging. Dined with Colonel Newdigate of the Rifles. Bailey, the Quartermaster was there who was out in the former campaign. The orders to day are that the 10th Hussars and the Rifles are to go back.

Thur. 12

Sketched the Goorkhas and Rifle mess tent. In the afternoon went out to see the ruins about a mile behind, found the old masonry. The lime was simply mud, no cohesion, and the small slates layers between were probably to reduce the quantity of mud or it would have been washed away. Forbes sent telegraph to wire freely all news of advance on Jellalabad – sent reply. As there is to be a change I arranged with W. Appleton, Vet. Sur. 10th Hussars to exchange my poney [sic] for one of his from Budakshan, paying Rs. 100, my poney's back...

Jan

Sat. 4

of Ali Musjid with blankets and 2 rupees each, he was not to be behind us in liberality, so he gave each a poshteen and sent him off. They came back here very much altered from their imprisonment and short rations. They report 6 regiments at Kabul.

Sun. 5

At work on sketches of yesterday and writing up account of the Chardeh Tope. A man went, or at least a letter went from this yesterday from Lord Lytton to Yakoob Khan.

Mon. 6

Writing letters, and went to see the Gymkhana in the afternoon. Telegraphed on the authority of Major Cavagnari that the “Mir Akhor has gone to Kabool.”

Tues. 7

Scribbled out Reply to Dr. Schliemann’s remarks in Times of 27th. Nov. in regard to Priam’s Palace. Dined with Honble. J. Napier, 10th Hussars. Went to Gymkhana and saw Tug of War between Mountain Battery and the Guide Infantry. Lasted 40 minutes. Mountain Battery won at last.

Wed. 8

Forgot to mention that on Monday night Col. Rogers of the 20th Sikhs got up a Bungra, or Khuttack Sword Dance for me at night, and today I wrought it out, as well as Tug of War, and Dooly Race.

Thur. 9

Writing out letter to Dr. Schliemann for Times, and also notes and letters for I. L. News; posted them in the evening. Rumours are current of an expedition to Kabool but only in June. Still it may come off.

Frid. 10

Finished letter to Daily News, and posted it. Went off on Suffaid Koh with the First Div. Brigde. under General Macpherson. Went first to the Ahin Posh Tope, and then on to the Makkan Khan Caves, then to Tanner’s newly discovered City of Caneroy, which is only an elongation of the other caves which I have seen. Went on to the main ridge and visited the western group of mounds; found a mud village in ruins, and an old tope, excavated at the side of it. It has been a very large tope. The foundations of walls, and mounds of ruined topes all along. Came back to the group of tower like topes. I sketched it out, and made a more careful sketch of the interior tope. From the section I made to day it must be more like this sketch on margin. Still the impression is so rough I cannot speak with certainty of it. Visited some more caves, and the ruins of a large tope, seemingly built entirely of boulders, and now a mound has been opened. Near to each of these I could see a quadrangle with mounds on all its four sides, suggesting that it had been the Vihara.

May.

Tues. 20

Went over to Head quarters this morning to shew Col. Colley’s letter to Major Cavagnari. Out sketching the Amir’s Camp in the evening. Dined with Bartram at Sappers & Miners.

Wed. 21

Finished sketch of Amir’s Camp. Called on Col. Madden, and suggested a little digging to him. Sketching in the evening, rode out afterwards and met Mr. Jenkins. Dined with Dr. Turner, at the General Hospital.

Thur. 22

Finished sketch in the morning. Called on Major Cavagnari during the day. Rode up to one of the hills near here where I heard there had been a Zenana Shere [?]. Evident remains at it. I begin to think there was a city on the lower ground here, and the old walls were the fortifications of it.

Friday 23

Mail Day, wrote notes to Parrish and Mrs. Ellis. With Adye and Micklejohn I went to Nimla Bagh, “Suffaid Koh” was very nut kut, took off his bridle to let him get a taste of the grass, and he would not allow us to catch him again. Had to send to the village for a rope and then he was surrounded. Went over to Sapper’s Camp where Campbell and another officer have been for some time doing a new road. The Nimla Bagh is said to have been made by Shah Jehan. The natives also mention the name of Aurangzebe in connection with it.

Sat. 24

Queen’s Birthday. Empress Parade at 6.30 a.m. Made a sketch and posted it of the parade - hope it will catch yesterday’s mail. Concert in the Evening.

Sun. 25

Went over to bathe at the 27th pool. Breakfasted at the 10th Hussars. Mailed and went off at 3 o’clock with St. Quentin, Ogilvy and a large party to Tostoo, got back in time for dinner at General Macpherson’s.

Mon. 26

Hearing that the treaty of peace was to be signed to day I went over to Major Cavagnari. The Treaty was being written out. Bakhiyan Khan, Habib Allah Khan, and the Amir’s Secretary were on the carpet in the tent at work writing. I made sketches of them. Went over in the evening at 6, and telegraphed to Daily News the Signing of the Treaty of Peace. Also probable return of the troops. Played a game of quoits and dined with Hill at Head Quarters. Wrote an account of Mercer’s Concert to Times of India, and finished a sketchy account of Explorations for Civil + Military Gazette, which I sent off to Macdonald. The troops in this Column cost £12,000 a day.

June.

Mon. 2

We breakfasted and had dinner in the Mess house, Fort Battye. Had a bath in the Kaga Stream, met a man of fair complexion, no luggage but a stick. Could not speak Hindustanee, came from Bockhara going on the Haj, spoke Russian and Turkish. Called himself a Nogai Tartar, had a slight touch of the Tartar in his face – gave him 8 annas and he made a profound salaam.

Tues. 3

Revillé at 3. March at 4 – visited a mound of stones on left bank of Lokhi Stream, evidently ruins of buildings but could not make out any plan. The Lokhi River rather large but by a circumbendabus it was easily got over. Waited till my two mules came and piloted them over. A camel got into deep water and required a dozen Goorkhas to get it on its feet again. Crowds of people going up, men, women & children on oxen. Saw one child stand crying on the bank on the Lokhi where it had been left. At Rozabad, we called it Baoli on the march up, we camped, and took up our quarters in a garden where Adye and I had been before – writing under the Anaar trees. The 20th P.I. came in during the night and I passed them at Futteabad. Battye’s Brother dined with us in Fort Battye last night. Not well at all to day. Was very windy and dusty in the tent at night.

Wed. 4

Marched at 4 a.m. Found the 20th P.I. on the road. After passing the Sultanpoor Tope, I crossed to the left of our line of march over the stream, and on to the cultivated land to look at some heaps in which I could see fragments of slate, and which I take to be from that Buddhist. The first mound had the ruins of a couple of Mahomedan tombs on it. I then left the road on the right and made for Gundeh Chismeh – I noticed as I passed that all the caves at Chur Bagh were empty, and I also found Gundeh Chismeh entirely deserted, not a soul left. The village behind it was likewise silent, no body in it. I rode that way to Ahin Posh where I saw Dr. Amesbury’s diggings. His tunnel went in but in small way. The face of outer terrace seemed very deep. Our camp was pitched close to Ahin Posh, and we got under the trees where the dholies used to wash. Rode over the sandy plain to see the fort. Saw the position of my tent where I lived all the winter.

Thur. 5

Marched at 4.30 to Ali Baghan. I kept to the right of line of march and got along on grass and fields. Rode up to the walled cliff near to the camp and...