Fashioning Insurrection

From Imperial Resistance To American Orientalisms

About the Exhibit

Zouave Dress

View original record

Letterpress print and engraving
Godey’s Magazine and Lady’s Book, vol. 62-3 (1861)
Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: Louis A. Godey, Publishers’ Hall
Brown University Library, Harris Collection


Zouave fashions for women could range from single garments like vests and jackets to day dresses, riding habits, and morning robes. Often ornamented with cross-laced gold cord, the outer jackets were worn open from the throat to display a white silk or muslin vest underneath (á la Zouave). Godey’s also preserves patterns for Zouave-inspired embroideries and mentions agencies who sent dress patterns to readers, showcasing the wide range of applications for this style. The woman pictured here sports a Zouave “négligé toilet” or indoor dress, complete with laced tassels on the oversize sleeves. The accompanying text suggests velvet for the base cloth and bright green silk cord or braid alongside the gold to relieve “the garish crudity of the metal.” Despite the military inspiration for the outfit, tailors and seamstresses endeavored to tone down the look with softer color contrasts and fabrics.