Fashioning Insurrection

From Imperial Resistance To American Orientalisms

About the Exhibit

Aftermath and Adaptation: Abd el-Kader to the Zouaves and Turcos in Popular Print

Costume became a powerful tool in the civilizing mission of French colonizers. The Zouave uniform represented a folkloric costume for the post-revolutionary empire that the French aspired to build. French armies recruited hundreds of soldiers from African colonies. Zouaves — alongside North African turcos, spahis and tirailleurs — initially formed their own battalions, but they soon intermingled with the French troops on the battlefield in the Crimean War, the Italian Campaign and the Franco-Prussian War. By the 1840s, the majority of Zouaves were non-African soldiers. Additionally, stage performers from Europe, British West India, Russia, and the United States (to name a few) adopted Zouave costumes in theatrical performances. The ethnic ambiguity of Zouave uniforms allowed wearers to perform racial, ethnic and gender crossing, which projected fantasies of prowess embodied by former antagonists and colonized soldiers while emulating their athleticism and liberality. This adaptation of Algerian dress supported new narratives of colonization in an institutionalized form of orientalism known as imperial liberalism.

Original sepia drawing, unsigned (by Lalaisse), numbered 42; standing uniform figure in profile with turban, cloak and gun, smaller mounted figure (rear view) in right background. Illustration of the official release of Abd el-Kader before French officials in an opera box illustration on magazine page, standing uniform figure with pack and equipment, facing left; other illustrations including 2 of military types, 1 battle scene. Menu-card with central figure of Zouave before draperies with border of zouave and colonial scenes.