Fashioning Insurrection

From Imperial Resistance To American Orientalisms

About the Exhibit

Costumes and Customs Documented Through Barbary Captivity and Trade Accounts

The visual histories of Algeria leading up to the French invasion of 1830 illustrate the blurred line between the concepts of custom and costume in the premodern world. In the Algerian Regency before 1830, the dey, the local head of government elected by Janissary officers, ruled over this Ottoman-controlled region. Meanwhile, beys governed the three sub-provinces of Constantine, Oran, and Titteri under the dey’s authority. To receive imperial investiture as a new bey or dey, a senior official from the regency submitted his application with an array of gifts in person before the Sublime Porte, or central government, in the Ottoman capital of Constantinople. The Ottomans then sent their own official (kapıcı) to the regency to confirm the investiture in a lavish ceremony, during which the dey would receive robes of honor and a sultanic gift, such as a gem-encrusted dagger or sword. Just as these sartorially infused traditions defined rulership on the Barbary Coast, foreigners also merged custom and costume to document all they learned about their formidable Mediterranean adversaries. After 1830, the French would also use costume and uniform to assert their power over these colonized peoples.

French armies and navy assaulting the port of Algiers