Fashioning Insurrection

From Imperial Resistance To American Orientalisms

About the Exhibit

Indian Sepoy Soldier and Men in a Boat

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Unknown artist/workshop, Thanjavur (Tanjore), British East India
Opaque watercolor (gouache) on paper, c. 1820
Brown University Library, Anne S. K. Brown Military Collection


Striking uniforms identified sepoy soldiers as part of the army service of the British East India Company. Their costume also distinguished them from the established norms of social hierarchy in Indic societies. This painting of a crowded boat crossing a body of water captures that contrast. The sepoy’s tailored red coat with green collar and cuffs topped with a black tricorn hat immediately stands out against the white and neutral tones of the Hindu men around him. Rather than identifying caste by the markings on their forehead, the sepoy’s entire ensemble indicates that he is operating within the sartorial system of a colonizing power. Even the colorful Mughal outfit on the man at the far left featuring blue spotted robes (jama) topped with a red-and-yellow turban (pagri) bears closer structural similarities to the clothing of the other Indic men around him in regional dress than to the sepoy.