Fashioning Insurrection

From Imperial Resistance To American Orientalisms

About the Exhibit

Shawl

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Goat wool
Kashmir, northwestern India, early to mid-nineteenth century
Brown University, Annmary Brown Memorial Collection


As early as 1750, the BEIC imported “India shawls” (cashmere) from Bombay and other Indian ports. The accessories rapidly spread across Europe and America after Napoleon’s expedition into Egypt in 1798–99, after officers brought home samples of imported Indian shawls worn in this Ottoman territory. These shawls arrived in America on New England trade ships coming from Ottoman Smyrna and beyond. Though India trade diminished somewhat in the nineteenth century, Godey’s Lady’s Book (May 1858) still featured luxury Indian shawls, estimating that an authentic full-size shawl cost from $500 to $5,000, with heavy customs duties. Many combine embroidery, loomwork, and sections of needlework carefully arranged in patterns sewn together. These shawls were frequently associated with rajahs and sultans in women’s periodicals throughout the Indian Uprising of 1857–58, and these world events seemed to enhance their exotic appeal. They inspired cheaper imitations made in France and England then imported to the United States.