Fashioning Insurrection

From Imperial Resistance To American Orientalisms

About the Exhibit

Studies from an Album of Twenty-One Watercolor Drawings of Ottoman, Greek and Levantine Costumes

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Artist(s) now unknown (Greece or Ottoman Empire)
Watercolor on paper, c. 1800
Brown University Library, Anne S. K. Brown Military Collection


Travelers, merchants, and diplomats frequently purchased costume albums produced by Ottoman commercial painters to document the people and sights of the region. Though often sold as individual stock figures, collectively these albums made bespoke portraits of the empire, as the organization of each collection could differ drastically based on the consumer. The albums perused by armchair travelers further popularized ethnic and regional costume far beyond the bounds of the empire. Frequently copied into prints and adapted into European and American fashions by the nineteenth century, such images fueled turquerie soirées of elites, inspired the Turkish trousers of suffragettes, and allowed political supporters of the Greek Revolution to dress the part in solidarity. Paintings from this album offer characters from all sides of this conflict, such as a Balkan cavalryman in decorative russet jacket and pantaloons bearing a scimitar, a klepht (Greek) soldier, and an Ottoman janissary officer known as a çorbacı.